When Napa lady grape growers escape to Argentina and Chile

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We thoroughly enjoyed our tour of South America , especially the viticulture portion in Casablanca valley, Chile and  Mendoza, Argentina. These two countries, although neighbors, practice different viticulture and wine making techniques.

Ladies resting at Bodega Archal-Ferrer , beneath the Andes

The wines did not disappoint, some of the hospitality was gruff but all in all the Malbec was fruity, the Cabernet not super tannic, the Carmenere intriguing with a full body and a deep color, and the Torrontes crisp refreshing with a beautiful aroma on the nose of Jasmine.

Mendoza

Mendoza, a desert, has been producing wine since the 1800′s.During our stay, we visited a variety of wineries from big corporate-style to lovely small boutique wineries.

We ventured through Mendoza in two different ways visiting two valleys, a bike ride through Maipu courtesy of Mr. Hugo Winery and Bikes and a hired taxi in Lujan de Cuyo. Next time after this epic 2012 harvest we will hire a Limo and tour the              up-and-coming region of the Uco Valley, supposedly where all the extreme hillside vineyards thrive.

Touring Mendoza by bike and hired car were both excellent ways to experience this wine region from viticultural, enological, and tourist point of view. The landscape was gorgeous, vineyards paired with the Andes backdrop was impeccable as well as looking at the vines bearing purple or white fruit awaiting harvest, about 8 weeks away.

Malbec awaiting the 2012 harvest, shatter came through the region as well.

The highlights of Mendoza wines were from the following Bodegas: the Brut Rose from Trapiche, the Unus blend from Mendel, the Finca Bella Vista Archal-Ferrer, the Malbec Rose from Mevi, the veranda and the Australian guys imbibing Malbec next to us really enhanced our visit,  the Torrontes from Terrazas de los Andes, the Cabernet Sauvignon from Bonfanti . For lunches we couldn’t resist the Argentine beef so we pulled off the road at a random Parilla and dined on succulent huge Bife de Chorizo Argentine steaks, accompanied by Chimichurri and Salsa Criolla of course! Muy sabroso y jugoso.

Classic cut of Argentine beef

From a grape grower and winemaker perspective , there are quite a few differences between the methods we implement in Napa and the methods that have swept Argentina.

Vineyards

The vines are trained in all sorts of methods with Cordon trained/spur pruned dominating. Irrigation is standardized across all vineyards through anal irrigation controlled by the government. Essentially the government opens the waterways every fifteen days and you can either open your canal or close it to irrigate the vines.

Lots of vineyards have gone through a variety of ownerships or re-plantings, because of this transition a lot of the vineyards are dotted with 100 year old olive trees. Peach and plum trees also decorate vineyards especially in the Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo areas.

A 100 year-old Olive tree adorns a Malbec Vineyard

Winery

Asides from irrigation and trellis differences, another difference is the recycling of wineries. Since wine making has existed for so long in Argentina, lots of wineries have changed ownership and the new owners figure out how to configure the existing winery into their general plan.

A common theme and structural element that we observed at a variety of wineries was the use of huge cement tanks that were built into the walls , these tanks could supposedly hold over 500,000 liters of wine.One winery’s approach to producing high quality boutique wines was the installation of newer stainless steel tanks within the winery and installing air-conditioning units inside the huge industrial cement tanks and turning them into barrel storage. An incredible experience to go inside the chilled barrel ‘room’,  really gave it a submarine type feel with the big door being cranked shut.

Whereas we cellar or age the bottled wine in a case flipped upside down, in Mendoza, we found the custom to be different, where bottles are laid flat on top of each other, where someone has the ability to check the corks for any faults through the aging process. After this stage, the wine is then put into the 6 bottle cases.

 

Malbec Reserva during the aging and cork inspection process

Another difference is packaging, in Argentina and Chile wine is packaged into six bottle cases instead of twelve. Due to the hands-on nature of the wine industry within both countries, cases are six bottles because essentially it is easier to pick up a six bottle case instead of a twelve bottle case.

Casablanca Valley

Chilean wines were astounding , Sauvignon Blanc and Carmere dominated tasting menus. The wineries are bigger and boutique wineries haven’t come into full force,however, things are changing. Vineyards are kept immaculate up to our Napa standards unlike some of the Argentine vineyards.  One winery we especially liked was Bodega Viña Mar, their bubbles were delicious as well as their chilled Pinot Noir and room temp Carmenere .

When your palette becomes overwhelmed by the fine wines of both Chile and Argentina , it is always a good idea to refresh with Chilean Pisco. Pisco, another alcohol sourced from wine grapes, perhaps Napa will get in on the game of Pisco production. Try out either a Pisco sour or a Pisco cocktail, might we recommend Pisco Berry or Pisco Aji for those brave souls that like a spicier digestif.

Refreshing our palettes with a delightful Chilean Pisco cocktail

Wishing everyone a warm winter and a wonderful start to spring,Cheers!

Brazilian Food : Regional Cuisine from Rio to Bahía

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We have enjoyed lots of cuisine throughout our tour of Brazil. From the southern most point of Brazil to Salvador. Although the food was delish in Rio de Janeiro we  have enjoyed a lot of different flavors in the state of Bahía . Touring beach towns and drinking as many Coco Gelados and Caiparhinas all the way to Salvador.

From Sucos (fresh fruit juices) to the infamous Açai berry, there is an amazing variety  of foods that we have never heard of nor have ever  crossed  over our palettes. Some of the foods and beverages that we definitely are writing home about include:

Açaí- this new celebrity in the power food realm, an Amazonian berry, that is so intensely dark purple that it stains your teeth much like a fine Bordeaux. Delicious and full of energy, it is usually blended and served with bananas, granola, and honey. Supposedly the hunters of the Amazon will chew the berries of Açaí with Farrofa and this will keep them full all day and give them lasting energy.

Acaí , potent, powerful, and delicous!

Moquecas- Sizzling on a ceramic plate, this fish or shrimp stew is made with Dende Oil (a red oil made from a particular palm tree), coconut milk, Pirao ( a mix of fish sauce and Farrofa), and sometimes accompanied with black-eyed peas or beans and rice.  An amazing Bahían dish.

Moqueca

Feijoada- A hearty dish, do not try to Samba after this meal. A beef , sausage, bean stew served with Couvé ( shredded greens cooked with garlic), oranges, and Farrofa (ground Yuca root). Absolutely fantastic and fiilling. Showcases some of the main staples in Brazil. One of the best Feijoada’s in Rio is located at the Casa Rosa, Centro Cultural, on Sunday nights. A great place to eat traditional cuisine and listen to live Samba music. This fantastic building was at one time  an infamous brothel.

Feijoada

Sucos-  a variety of fruit juices, one of the more interesting varieties include: Cajú , Cacao, Graviola , fruits that definitely are not grown in California and for that matter in Napa. Make sure to ask for sem azucar or it will be very sweet. Usually they blend the pulp with water, the fruit flavors are still strong however, and the drink is very hydrating.

Cacao pod

Acarajé –  a food particular to the state of Bahía,  a deep fried bun made of flour from ground  Black-eye Peas, that is fried in the infamous Dende oil and stuffed with shrimp, spicy chile peppers, Okra , and another ingredient that is difficult to translate. A very Creole-esque snack. Lovely and beautiful  women make them from scratch infront of your eyes.

Gorgeous woman serving infamous Aracajé

Lastly, one of our favorite beverages asides from the Fruit Caiparhinias, are the Coco Gelados, the chilled young coconuts that they machete a hole in and put a straw in and let you enjoy it at the beach or through a stroll in town. Refreshing and rehydrating. However, be careful too much young coconut can have a laxative effect.

Tough life- beach and chilled coconuts abound.

We are now off to Argentina, going to live like the Gauchos along the  Pampas through our exploration of Buenos Aires and Mendoza. Can´t be from the Napa Valley and not go wine tasting in Argentina.

Cheers!

The top 5 things to do in Rio De Janiero

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1. Drink a Brazilian  beer (Brahma, Bohemia (our favorite), Antartica, etc.) on the streets, beaches, taxis, or on the wild bus rides of Rio de Janiero.

Brazilian beer line up , except Stella

2. Visit the Lapas neighborhood on any night of the week, but most importantly Friday night. Scope out the beautiful Caraicos, both male and female. There are plenty of lesbian and gay and transvestites too. Stay out until sunrise that is the thing to do. During the day Lapas houses the famous Lapas Steps, mosaic stairs . Featured in the Snoop Dogg, Beautiful video.

Lapas steps a real treat.

3. Drink a 600 ml Caipirinha or any size ,Caipri for short. An outstanding Brazilian drink made with mottled limes, sugar, and Cachaça. Opt for Abacaxi , Maracuyo , or Marango for a fruity twist or fall in love with the traditional Limao. Delicious! 1 to 2 of these drinks you are in the clear 3 or 4 and Rio gets a bit blurry.

Delicious, refreshing, and pairs well with a beach

4. Put on your Brazilian bathing suit , grab a Canga and head to the gorgous Ipanema beach. Feeling a little more daring , head to Copcabana, watch out for the Flavela kids. They will steal your stuff!

Ipanema beach, wonderful area to get a tan and people watch.

5. Visit Pao de Azucar, great view of the city, the Christ the Redeemor statue and has two funiculares you get to ride to get to the tip top. Go on a clear day and arrive an hour before the sunset, truly epic experience.

We have had lots of fun on Rio de Janiero, staying both in Ipanema and Santa Teresa. Both neighborhoods are interesting and offer different vibes of the city. Santa Teresa is the Bohemian area of Rio and is surrounded by 4 Flavelas which makes it interesting to say the least. Ipanema is a higher-end area and of course very close to the actual beach. We are heading up the coast tomorrow visitng a variety of high visited surfing areas and beaches. For a fabulous accomodation in Ipanema we recommend the Mango Tree hostel, an old colonial architecture building. In Santa Teresa, a gorgeous Bohemian woman runs the Casa Aurea, a former mansion turned into hostel.

The Bohemian neighborhood very hilly

Cheers!

Andean Farming- terraces, Incan techniques, and an abundance of produce

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From our trek to Machu Picchu to observing various farms along our trip through Peru we have asked lots of questions regarding farming techniques adopted by the modern-day Peruvians.

Ancient terraces, `looks like Hossfeld Coliseum block`-according to Steve Ventrello , proprietor of Parador Cellars

Lots of them are tried and true methods from the 1500`s from the Incans. Terraces are the most popular way to cultivate vegetables. Peru is such a diverse area containing well over 28 microclimates. The fruit markets are loaded with impressive amounts of fruits and veggies, from tropical and arid climates. The potato , chile, and maiz (corn) have lots of varieties , textures, and colors. Fascinating compared to our U.S. supermarkets just carrying the standard allotment of Yukon Gold, Red, and Russet potatoes.

An assortment of Potatoes in the mercado central , Cusco

The chocolate and coffee aren´t to shabby as well. The Choco Museo  in Cusco, Peru, is outstanding and we highly recommend it.

Cusco Coffee - Peruvian version of Starbucks

Since transportation is limited in Peru, it is difficult for the farmers to get their produce to markets or to export it. It is a shame lots of produce goes unused and ends up decomposing or farmers just grow their crops for themselves and neighbors.

I didn`t see many tractors, however, we did see a lot of traditional plowing with oxen. A family would work together which is important because it is crucial for not only the Andean farmers but all the farmers to be self sustainable. As the father controlled the oxen and the plow tore at the earth revealing that seasons potatoes, the children would take a blanket and basket and collect the bounty. It really gave you a sense of the importance of family and tilling the land.

The Incas had an impressive repertoire regarding hybridization of plants, where one plant might grow well in the jungle , they hybridized and experimented with it until they could grow it in higher elevation or near a river  most likely the Urubamba River, which to them was a powerful entity that resembled the Milky Way.

Urubamba River

Quinoa, of course a huge mega food and originated in the highest elevations in Peru. It has now gained popularity all over the world especially in California as a gluten-free power food.

Most of the produce is organic in Peru because the farmers for one can¨t afford petroleum-based fungicides, fertilizers, etc. and because they follow ancient rituals taking advantage of native plants growing in their respective area. One example is an insecticide that they create from a hallucinogenic flower called Brugmansia, also known as  the Angel Trumpet flower.  Also there is a native tobacco plant that when the leaves are steeped in water it can be used as an insecticide as well. We practice this similar method in organic gardening in California.

As one plot of land lays fallow from the previous crop , the cows, alpacas, sheep, and horses are allowed to graze their , thus adding organic matter and compost to that plot for the next season`s planting. Thus , the Incas and modern-day Peruvians believe in the importance of crop rotation have been using this method for centuries.

Before the weather channel, weather apps, and the internet, farmers would have to watch the stars and the Milky Way to predict when to irrigate, plant, and harvest. Very knowledgeable and independent .

Peru has showed us lots of prowess in the farming sector regarding self sustainability. We did enjoy catching a glimpse of their farming techniques and abundance of delectable produce.

We now move along to Brazil another powerhouse of produce and resources. Looking forward to the jungle, beaches, and regional cuisines.

New Year`s a la Arequipeña

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Cheers to the bounty of 2012!! Feliz año nuevo!

Wearing our yellow Peruvian hats for New Year`s eve

Celebrating New Year´s in a foreign country is always exciting. New foods, friends, and cultural nuances flood the scene and captivate all the spectators. This year we spent New Year´s eve in Arequipa , Peru, the second largest city in Peru .

Traditions created around New Year´s are always fascinating. In the U.S. we are sparse on traditions compared to other countries. Of course, kissing someone at midnight, perhaps the colors blue and silver are the thematic colors, and sharing your New Year´s resolution. These are very tame compared to the Peruvian customs.

There are three traditions that we experienced and adopted during our stay in Arequipa. The first is the importance of wearing the right color underwear when ringing in the New Year. Yellow for prosperity, green for wealth, and red for love. All the street markets were flooded with different styles and the respective colored panties.

Lots of underwear for sale in the street markets of Arequipa

The second tradition involves Incan folklore , lots of incense. Not the typical Nag Champa that everyone associates with incense. But traditional cauldrons where herbs, cedar, and other plants are burned to rid oneself and the area of bad spirits . Starting off the new year spiritually safe and sound.

Traditional incense, Incan style

Candles are the third ritual, lots of different colors representing certain qualities that you would want in the New Year. Once burned at 12 , each color will perform it{s respective character. Yellow for prosperity, blue for health, red for love, purple for self-confidence, etc. Two of us ladies in our group burned blue and yellow ones, where as the single ladies burned beautiful red candles with gold accents.

Assortment of homemade candles, need luck in the year to come? burn a candle

Much like our tradition involving plenty of champagne to ring in the New Year, in Peru , Demi-Sec champagne made Ica, Peru, very sweet almost to sweet for these American Chicas. There were also tables full of Muscato, Vino de Higo (fig wine), and other red Peruvian varietals made in a sweet manner.

If planning to travel in the New Year one must circle their neighborhood carrying two suitcases in order to give good luck for your trip and put the energy out there that you have good luck when traveling in the New Year.

Happy 2012 to everyone and may it be prosperous to all!!

Up in the Andes Estilo Peruano: our adventure thus far

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Although the wine has been sparse in Peru so far on our journey, we have been delighting in the local ´bebidas´ from Pisco Sours, Inca Cola, Cusquena a local beer, and Coca tea. We are even debating visiting the wine region of Ica lots of sparkling wine is made in this Southern province of Peru.

More popular than Coca Cola, Inca Cola

Lima was a very eclectic coast town, we stayed in the Barrancos area. This was great for us because it is the Bohemian area of Lima and we found it quite suitable.We did enjoy Miraflores as well as El Centro. Colorful buildings, gorgeous colonial mansions, and of course coastal fog filled our days of sightseeing. A bike tour from Bike Tours of Lima rescued us from our jet lag , our guide Franco was fantastic.  The food was delicious as well , from traditional Peruvian cuisine to Comida Chifa ( a fusion of Chinese food and Peruvian food).

Barrio Barrancos

My favorite food during our visit to Lima was the Aji de Gallina, a chicken dish made with the infamous Aji chile, very difficult to find in the U.S. , they like it spicy down here. Other traditional dishes that we shared were Arroz con Pollo and an Amazonion dish Tacu Tacu con Asado.

Ají de Gallina

After delighting in all that Lima had to offer we are resting up in Cusco anticipating our 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. Drinking lots of Coca tea, sipping on Quinoa soup , and eating the vast variety of Peruvian potatoes.

Tomorrow we are going to nosh around town at the infamous Mercado de San Pedro. Other traditional dishes on our must-eat list include: Alpaca steaks or burger, anticuchos de carne or alpaca (beef hearts or Alpaca hearts on a skewer) , and Cuy.

Chicas bebiendo Pisco

Ciao y Cheers de Peru!

How will farmers thrive in 2012 and beyond? being a consumer as well as a farmer

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Not only grape growers but farmers in general seem to be finding success by a new mantra “understanding of what customers want to [eat or] drink, what they want to hear, and what they’re willing to pay” (The New Yorker, November 21, 2011, “Sacred Grounds”) The new twist is the incorporation of social media and displaying the niche of the farmer . Not only the needs and wants of the consumer, but farmers are designing their marketing campaigns from a consumer’s point of view. Spinning a new story about the crop or showcasing a new attribute, for example the way the Pistachio and Pomegranate have garnered fame.  Following this new mantra can open the door for productive conversation, higher sales, and long term contracts.

Turning Pomegranates into a celebrity

Coffee has seen a cult status reemergence where farms and growers are being featured on the coffee labels. Coffee companies such as Stumptown , place particular coffee producers on their labels because they realize that savvy consumers will search out their product. Regarding other crops, ranches, farms, and growers are gaining a following or a fandom surrounding their product, farming techniques,  and story.  Similarly to the vineyard designates and particular vineyards that are highly sought after because of the prestigious fruit, scarcity of it, reputation, and infamous terroir.

Beautiful coffee "cherries"

Competition is as fierce as ever being a farmer, higher input costs, substantial quantities of product on the market, as well as superb quality across the board. However, there are still those people out there sneaking by with a sub-par product .  Take Cabernet Sauvignon  for instance, the grape market is flooded with Cabernet Sauvignon, but when one peers into the intricacies of it, there is a high supply of average Cabernet Sauvignon and a short supply of the primo stuff. i,.e. hillside or Rutherford bench. Finding new methods to stand out from the pack is essential to surviving this economy.

There is an appearance of new producers from non-traditional backgrounds, for example: women farmers and new enthusiasts ,showcasing their prestige and developing clever marketing campaigns. With passion and a knowledge of the market , quality products are being distinguished from the milieu of the barrage of products within the industry.Showcasing your passion and the TLC of tending to your crop , consumers empathize as well as adopt  your mission and your ideals.

Ladies giving TLC to their crops

Some of the new women farmers on the scene are Bossy Acres, Thomson Vineyards, and Aida Batlle  . Whether it is high-end Chardonnay, infamous micro greens and organic produce, and extraordinary Salvadoran coffee (she even has hillside coffee farms too), these producers are experiencing success with using various social media platforms to communicate to consumers, interact with actual and potential clients, showcase their story and point of view , and above all delivering a high quality product.

Returning back to grape growing which is so pertinent to us, we can’t wait to taste the wine made from our grapes and receive our positive and negative feedback to better farm it next year, continual improvement that’s key to an already flooded market . One must have a palette as well as calluses on their hands, knowing where the consumer is spending their money as well as what type of wine attracts them. For us , the consumer is namely the winemaker and the clients that purchase the $125/bottle  and we have to be able to talk to the talk and walk the walk to secure our sales in the current state of the economy and market.

Cheers!